A New Chapter in Greenwood’s Culinary Story

August 12, 2024

Grilled salmon, house salad, turnip greens, yeast rolls, and a slice of coconut pie. If you were a fan of the Crystal Grill, like me, you can probably still remember the last meal you had before the restaurant unexpectedly closed in July.

The closure of the Crystal Grill hit hard. It was the fourth local restaurant to close in less than two years, joining Steven’s BBQ, Turnrow Cafe, and Lusco’s in leaving a void in Greenwood’s restaurant scene. For a town known as a culinary destination in the Mississippi Delta, these losses are more than just a few shuttered doors—they represent a major shift in our dining landscape.

For decades, Greenwood built its culinary reputation on the backs of family-owned restaurants that served up more than just food—they delivered experiences. Talk to anyone across the state about Greenwood, and they’ll tell you about a memorable meal at Lusco’s or the Crystal Grill. Both restaurants opened in the 1930s and helped define Greenwood’s food culture for nearly a century.

Now, we’re entering a new chapter. With the closing of these icons, Greenwood’s story is evolving. We’re still a destination for food lovers, but the era of multi-generational landmark restaurants is passing. It’s time to embrace what comes next—a chapter driven by new voices, fresh flavors, and a renewed energy.

The good news? We’ve still got plenty to be excited about. Established in 1936, Giardina’s is Greenwood’s oldest remaining restaurant, and it continues to shine after reinventing itself in 2003 at The Alluvian Hotel. Serio’s has also evolved since its opening in 1943, delighting diners with Italian fare, steaks, and seafood.

Meanwhile, chef Taylor Bowen-Ricketts at Fan and Johnny’s is pushing culinary boundaries with some of Mississippi’s most creative dishes—earning herself a James Beard nomination for Best Southern Chef. Similarly, Valour Taylor is giving traditional favorites a healthy twist at the Bread and Butter Shoppe, while offering some of the best wood-fired pizzas in the region.

Greenwood is also home to a rich variety of Southern-style restaurants: By the Bridge Bistro, Delta Roots Takery, Drake’s BBQ, the Venue by the Trail, Webster’s, and What’s Cooking. We’ve even got an impressive range of international options, from Mai Little China to Veronica’s Bakery and San Miguel Arcangel. In short, while we may have lost some pillars of our past, Greenwood’s dining future is as bright and diverse as ever.

When the Crystal Grill closed, I got calls from folks worried about what this meant for Greenwood. Some saw it as a sign of economic decline. Others felt it left a gap in our local food scene that couldn’t be filled. I understand that feeling—it’s personal for me, too. But instead of seeing this as the end of something great, I see it as an opportunity to be thoughtful about what’s next.

In the wake of these closures, I reached out to Proof Incubator, a Chattanooga-based consulting firm that works with food and beverage entrepreneurs in rural communities. They’re experts in helping local restaurants not only survive but thrive. After a few conversations, we pulled together a coalition—the EDF, the Chamber of Commerce, the CVB, and the City of Greenwood—to explore what Proof could do for our community.

Starting in January, Proof will bring its expertise to Greenwood, and we’re confident it will make a real difference for our local restaurants. Their work will begin with a thorough market assessment to help us understand where the gaps and opportunities lie, providing valuable insight as we work to attract and support new restaurants.

Next, Proof will offer a set of tools to empower local restaurant owners, including a library of on-demand training courses covering critical business topics like marketing, purchasing, pricing, and customer service. In addition, a 12-week accelerator program will provide hands-on training for up to 10 restaurants, equipping participants with the knowledge and skills they need to elevate their operations.

Finally, Proof will help us explore the potential for a food incubator in Greenwood. This initiative could offer aspiring food entrepreneurs the space, guidance, and resources to test their ideas before launching them on a larger scale. It’s an exciting possibility that could further strengthen Greenwood’s food scene and provide a launchpad for the next generation of culinary talent.

Local restaurants play a vital role in our community—not just because of the jobs they create or the sales tax they generate, but because they’re part of what makes Greenwood a great place to live. To attract new industries and residents, we need to be the kind of community people want to call home. A strong, diverse restaurant scene helps tell that story. That’s why supporting our local restaurants is a priority for the EDF, and with Proof’s guidance, we’re excited about the possibilities ahead.

Greenwood’s dining legacy may be changing, but it’s far from over. We’re stepping into the future with a fresh perspective, and we invite the entire community to join us in celebrating and supporting the next generation of Greenwood restaurants.

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Thomas Gregory is a certified city planner and executive director of the Greenwood-Leflore-Carroll Economic Development Foundation.